Reviewed by Jeanne
In 1948, Grace and Jim Proffitt, a young couple with
two small children and deep roots in East Tennessee decided to see if they
could earn some extra money by opening a restaurant. They’d a bit of experience in running a
country store, so with two partners they opened an eatery in Bullock’s Hollow. Named for a hotel in Dayton Beach, the
Ridgewood Grill featured steak, country fried chicken, and—somewhat oddly—oysters.
The venture was doing fairly well, and then they were dealt a setback: Sullivan County went dry. Since beer sales had been a strong source of
revenue, they had to re-think their business plan.
Instead of a grill, they decided to specialize in
barbecue. The rest, as they say, is history.
Like the Colonel, Ridgewood has its secret
recipes. The barbecue sauce, perfected
over time by Jim Proffitt, doesn’t have a written recipe. Instead, at the
proper time, a family member is chosen to memorize the ingredients; most recently, Larry Proffitt passed the barbacue recipe to his daughter, Lisa. Also
cloaked in secrecy is the recipe for the blue cheese dressing, which is so good
that it’s eaten from a bowl with crackers instead of being spread over
salad. People purchase it by the quart to take home. Other famous dishes are the baked
beans and coleslaw.
Fred Sauceman, a food historian with a strong
interest in the Appalachian region, is the perfect writer to record the history
of the legendary Ridgewood. He knows the
region and the people in general, and The Ridgewood in particular. He does an
excellent job of describing how the restaurant has fared through the years,
being passed from Grace and Jim to their sons, and now the third generation is
behind the counter. While family members
have outside jobs –ever practical, they are encouraged to choose professions
suitable for making a living--but the restaurant remains a labor of love.
Sauceman discusses how the classic menu came to be,
including the design of the pit for smoking the ham (never pork shoulder, which
is for sausage) and the creation of the tomato based sauce. Some side dishes
warrant their own discussion, coleslaw for one. The emphasis is all on fresh,
quality ingredients, without shortcuts.
This attention to detail and quality has won the
restaurant nationwide recognition, including a photo in People magazine with a testimonial from the Sterns (“Road Food”)
and a visit to “Good Morning America.” NASCAR drivers, professional football
players, TV personalities, and other celebrities have made their way to
Ridgewood, but it’s the local customers who have supported the restaurant over
the decades with a fierce loyalty.
The book is as much about the family and the region
as it is about the food. To Sauceman,
the Proffitt family epitomizes Appalachian regional values. Besides quality, frugality, generosity, and
pride in one’s work, the emphasis is on family and relationships. Most of the employees have worked there for
decades, sometimes with three generations of one family working together.
When I confessed that I had never been to Ridgewood,
my admission drew gasps from the audience.
I have been told that I simply must
make the trip. After reading The Proffitts of Ridgewood,
I am inclined to agree. But whether you
are a regular customer or neophyte like me, I think anyone with an interest in
our region would enjoy this book.
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